Day 9 - Alwinton to Rothbury

18.5 miles, 8 1/2 hours (including pub visits)




We returned to the point where we left the route and continued on along a good bridle track towards Alwinton. This led round the outskirts of Clennell Hall to reach Clennel Street, the ancient roadway into Scotland. We followed this for a short way to arrive in Alwinton village.





Alwinton is a very pretty village with a large green, the pub and a few little cottages. We saw the landlord from the pub who gave us a cheery "Good Luck" for the last day.

The rowan trees along the stream through the village were full of bright red berries.





We followed the road out of the village, crossing the River Alwin shortly before it joins the Coquet. There was a good view back across the meadows to Alwinton and the Cheviot hills behind.

Turning off the road we followed a track which brought us back into the Coquet valley and along to Harbottle. Occasional glimpses of Harbottle Castle could be seen through the trees. It was warm and sunny, but the views were becoming very misty in the distance.




42.The Star Inn, Harbottle - 11:10am

Unfortunately closed, as we were ready for a drink.





The next stage took us into Harbottle Woods. Initially it was a well worn route weaving through mature trees, though it was light and airy as some recent felling had occurred.

Slightly further into the wood, the trees became thicker, with soft dropped needles carpeting the floor and lots of multicoloured mushrooms among them. The path was clearly marked and this was a very enjoyable change from the open moorlands.






Shortly after leaving the woods we arrived at Lady's Well, Holystone. This quiet tranquil pool was quite an amazing sight, and a very relaxing place to be. The water was incredibly clear, and signs indicate that it is used as the water supply for the village.




From Holystone the route rejoined the River Coquet, passing along the valley floor through a very long meadow. There was one very wet section where we had to carefully find our way across a boggy ditch, testing the ground ahead of us with poles.

After just over a mile in the meadow we turned uphill to join a series of good tracks into Hepple.





We crossed the River Coquet once more at Hepple. The water looked quite deep and darkly coloured from the peat of the cheviot moors.

The outline of the hills gradually faded into the mist and we could feel a little dampness in the air. As we followed a short road section uphill towards Bickerton it started to rain more steadily.






Leaving the road behind we headed across to the lakes of Caistron nature reserve. The reserve was once a gravel and sand quarry, now a haven for birds and fish.




We sat in a hide out of the rain for our lunch, watching the birds and the fish jumping. To our amazement we saw a large bird plunge down into the water - an osprey. After a few moments it returned again for another dive, unfortunately we didn't have the camera ready.

Eventually after waiting for several minutes in hope of a third appearance with camera poised nothing happened and so it was time to move on.




43.Three Wheat Heads, Thropton - 4:40pm

A large pub with quiet lounge bar and restaurant. We enjoyed a few minutes sitting indoors out of the rain.




44.Cross Keys, Thropton - 5:00pm

A cosy pub with several small private seating areas.




The rain had eased by the time we left the Cross Keys. We headed uphill along the enclosed track of Physic Lane to reach open moorland. Looking back we could see over the village of Thropton and across the fields we had walked through.


Much of the heather was starting to fade, but it still provided a carpet of colour.






The path follows the carriage drive which contours around the hillside. This was once part of Lord Armstrong’s Cragside Estate. There was a good view down to Rothbury and along the valley.

After a while the track entered woodland and took a gradual snaking route downhill before dropping more steeply into the town, emerging on to the high street by the Queens Head.



We headed for our B&B, Silverton House before returning to the town for food at the Queens Head, and to see the remaining pubs.






45.Railway Hotel, Rothbury - 8:45pm

Very busy traditional local pub.




46.Newcastle Hotel, Rothbury - 9:00pm

Grand building in the centre of the town.




47.Turks Head, Rothbury - 9:15pm

Old coaching inn with traditional bar.

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