Introduction

This is a photo guide to the Northumberland Inn Way which we walked in August 2008.

This page contains full details of all stages, or you can use the links on the right to view each individual stage. We combined the walk with a family holiday and so made some of the days shorter to be able to also fit in trips to the Farne Islands, coastal castles and Cragside House and gardens.

We stayed in a self catering cottage in Beadnell for most of the time, and a couple of bed and breakfasts towards the end of the route. Details of these can be found on the accomodation page. Our family provided transport at the start and finish points of each day when required.

We hope it will be of some use to those who may be planning to do the walk themselves, or encourage others to give it a try.

Please enjoy our report, and sign our guestbook or leave comments.

Rachael & Mark.

Day 1 - Rothbury to Felton

12.5 miles, 7 3/4 hours (including pub visits)

It was just getting light as we set off at 4:00am - what a time to start a holiday! By setting out at that time the roads were quiet and so we had an easy journey up from Suffolk. This also meant we could be in Rothbury for 10:00am and still have the rest of the day for a walk.





We were dropped off at the car park by the River Coquet and began the walk straight away. It was a nice bright day as we left the town behind us. We were soon passing the first of the pubs, though it was too early to stop yet.




1.Coquet Vale Hotel, Rothbury - 10:40am

A smart looking hotel. No time to stop this early in the morning.





It had clearly been raining prior to our arrival. It was quite wet underfoot as the path took us away from the road and through farmland to reach some woodland. We found ourselves slipping and sliding in mud as we headed up through the woods. In places the path was also quite overgrown, but we eventually emerged on to open ground with good views along Coquetdale to Rothbury.






The going became much easier as we walked at a higher level above the River Coquet, passing the ruined Craghead farm. We passed by a variety of farm animals - sheep, pigs and longhorn cattle, including a large bull who thankfully took no notice of us.



The path dropped steeply down through woods to rejoin the side of the River Coquet. We briefly followed the river bank until reaching the arched bridge in Pauperhaugh.







We passed through meadows following the river for a short time before heading uphill on a more direct route as the river curved sharply away through a series of bends.

We came close to the river once more above Brinkburn Priory but views were restricted by trees. Only an ocasional brief glimpse of an arch or tower could be seen.


We arrived at Weldon Bridge at 1:45pm and met up with our family at the pub for our lunch.



2.Anglers Arms, Weldon - 1:45pm

Cosy friendly pub. Excellent food with very generous portions. A very large stuffed pike mounted on one wall.





After a long lunch break we continued on our path along the Coquet valley towards Felton. The route initially followed a good track passing a few houses but gradually became muddier as we approached Elyhaugh. At one point we needed our walking poles to keep ourselves upright as the downhill slopes were so slippery.








After passing under the busy A1 we entered grounds of Felton Park with a large variety of mature trees.







At the edge of Felton village we crossed the old 15th century bridge over the River Coquet into West Thirston.




3.Northumberland Arms, West Thirston - 5:45pm

A busy but comfortable pub with a variety of seating areas.




4.Stags Head, Felton - 6:15pm

Very quiet, dated local pub. Friendly but inexperienced staff

Day 2 - Felton to Alnmouth

13 miles, 9 1/2 hours (including pub visits and tour of Warkworth Castle & Hermitage)




We got dropped off back in Felton at 9:50am and arranged to meet up for lunchtime in Warkworth. We followed Mouldshaugh Lane track out of the village and were soon crossing fields to rejoin the River Coquet.

This was a pleasant stretch of path, a good mixture of cornfields, woodland and meadows. Underfoot was much drier than the previous day.





A mile long stretch of quiet country lane took us through the pretty village of Guyzance. The scenery beyond here gradually became more open and flat. The landscape was of predominantly arable fields and where the path followed field verges they were at times quite overgrown. The stile in the corner of a caravan site near East House was almost completely covered with brambles and nettles.





After another short section of road we crossed the River Coquet at the back of a popular caravan site into the quiet village of Heather Leazes. Once at the top of the village the view opened out to the coast, giving us our first sight of Warkworth Castle and the sea beyond.





We rejoined the side of the River Coquet at the ferry crossing point for Warkworth Hermitage. A very pleasant walk on the well maintained path along the river bank led us up to the castle. We then entered the town and met up with family.




5.The Sun Hotel, Warkworth - 12:30pm

A busy hotel bar. Sat outside for a quick drink.




6.Hermitage Inn, Warkworth - 12:55pm

Looked a very nice pub, but crowded on the Bank Holiday weekend.




7.Masons Arms, Warkworth - 1:00pm

A cosy wood beamed traditional pub. Busy, but lots of seating. We enjoyed a nice sunday lunch.





Our afternoon was spent visiting the two properties managed by English Heritage. Warkworth Castle is one of the best castles we have visited recently. It is an impressive building standing high above the rest of the village. There were extensive views of the surrounding area from the keep. Combined with a very interesting audio tour this made it definitely well worth the visit.






We then returned along the riverside path to visit the Hermitage. This involved a very brief boat trip across the river to reach the small living area and chapel, which is carved out of the rock face.




8.Warkworth House Hotel, Warkworth - 4:15pm

A lovely bar, very comfortable seating. A wide selection of teas and coffees, perfect for an afternoon tea.




9.Black Bull, Warkworth - 5:00pm

No time to stop unfortunately.







We left Warkworth late in the afternoon, crossing the river by the old bridge. The River Coquet was finally left behind as we headed along the road towards the sea.






As we arrived at the sand dunes most people were heading away, even though it was a lovely evening to be walking on the beach. Miles of golden sand extended in both directions, and we had it all largely to ourselves.

We took off our boots and paddled for much of the way.








We walked as far as we could along the beach, right up to where the River Aln flows out into the sea. It is not possible to cross the river into Alnmouth, we returned on the path through the dunes to reach the road. Here we were met again by family, and went into Alnmouth for the evening.




10.Schooner Hotel, Alnmouth - 8:05pm

Large hotel, with Indian restaurant inside. Reputed as the most haunted hotel in Britain - didn't get chance to experience it.




11.Saddle Hotel, Alnmouth - 8:10pm

Looked a grand building with nice menu. Will try it next time.




12.Red Lion Inn, Alnmouth - 8:15pm

Extremely busy and noisy pub. Low ceiling traditional bar. Unfortunately stopped serving food at 8 so we continued on.




13.Hope and Anchor, Alnmouth - 8:20pm

Lovely pub. Staff very accomodating on a busy evening. Food very good, and we enjoyed the Farne Island beer. We ate in the smart comfy restaurant.




14.Sun Inn, Alnmouth - 10:30pm

Traditional looking pub. We didn't have the chance to visit.

Day 3 - Alnmouth to Embleton

12.5 miles, 7 1/2 hours (including pub visits and tour of Dunstanburgh Castle)





It was 10:30am as we got dropped off in Alnmouth. We climbed up on to the high path running above the golf course. This gave us a good view back down across the village and along the beach where we had walked the previous day.





At Foxton Hall we dropped down on to the beach, and walked along the sand as far as Seaton Point, where we rejoined the cliff top path. Here we lost the view of the sea for a short while as the path passed around a caravan park, sheltered by a large bank.

At Boulmer Haven there were several people windsurfing. The bay looked calm, but there was quite a breeze moving them along swiftly.




15.Fishing Boat Inn, Boulmer - 12:00pm

A very smart bar and restaurant overlooking the sea. We enjoyed a nice coffee in the lounge bar.


We left Boulmer on a good track, passing a series of interesting metal bird sculptures.








We returned once again to the shoreline at Howdiemont Sands. There was no longer an expanse of sand as we had seen with the coastline further south, here the small bays are interrupted by rocky outcrops jutting into the sea. The ruined outline of Dunstanburgh Castle could be seen at the end of the headland in the distance.







Beyond Howick the cliffs became more dark and rugged. The forces from volcanic action millions of years ago have left the rocks twisted into interesting layered formations.


The path became quite busy with people as we rounded Cullernose Point. We reached Craster shortly afterwards and met up with family for a picnic lunch on the harbour wall.




Craster is a pretty fishing village centered around the harbour. It has a great smoke house, and we couldn't resist sampling some of their smoked fish patés.



16.Jolly Fisherman, Craster - 2:45pm

A small cosy pub with a friendly welcome.



We joined the crowds on the approach to Dunstanburgh Castle. This was a popular stretch of path on a Bank Holiday Monday. The castle outline is very impressive, made more dramatic sillhouetted against the darkening sky.

This was the second of our castle visits on the route. Much of Dunstanburgh has decayed, though it is possible to climb the gatehouse tower for a good view all the way back to Boulmer and beyond.

The sky became darker, and we had a heavy shower just before leaving the castle. We sheltered under the entrance archway while it passed.










From Dunstanburgh we rejoined the path along the coast towards Embleton beach. The grassy banks had a mixture of wild flowers, intense purple Cranesbill and bright yellow Ragwort. This bee had obviously been caught out in the shower.







At Embleton bay the tide was out exposing a wide sweeping expanse of sand. It was so quiet here in comparison the crowds of people near Craster. We took off our boots and headed for the water for a very refreshing paddle.






The castle outline gradually became smaller but still provided a great backdrop and a very memorable view back along the beach. We reluctantly left the beach behind and headed for the golf club carpark where our transport was waiting to take us back to Beadnell.

The evening was spent visiting the two pubs in Beadnell .



17.Tower Hotel, Beadnell - 8:00pm

A smart hotel bar and separate restaurant. Excellent food we ate here twice during the week.




18.Craster Arms, Beadnell - 10:30pm

Nice comfortable bar

Day 4 - Trip to Farne Islands and Lindisfarne

We had a day off from walking the route to see some more sights of Northumberland. First was a boat trip from Seahouses to visit the Farne Islands. We used Billy Shiel's, who was the only one to have an early sailing that included a landing on Inner Farne.





It was a perfectly calm day, so ideal for a boat trip out to sea. We cruised out from the harbour at 10:00am, to reach the edge of the Inner Farnes, pausing at Big Scarar and Little Scarar to watch seals and shags on the rocks.


A few of the seals were very accommodating and posed for their pictures.








Leaving the seals to relax on the rocks, we continued further out to view Longstone Lighthouse.

It was from here in 1838 that Grace Darling and her father the lighthouse keeper rescued nine people from the Forfarshire, a ship which ran aground on Big Harcar in a bad storm.







The trip then took us back in and around Brownsman Island heading towards Inner Farne. Along the way we saw more seals in the water.





We landed for an hour on Inner Farne island. Most of the nesting birds had departed, unfortunately this included the puffins that the island is known for. There were still a few gulls and shags dotted around the cliff edges.

The lighthouse on the island is at the closest point to the mainland, with good views towards Bamburgh.







As we left the island the clouds began to clear and the sun came out. Our final view of the island was of the chapel, dedicated to St Cuthbert.


It was 12:30pm as we arrived back in Seahouses at the harbour. The trip was very enjoyable and well worth the visit. We would like to return in the spring during the breeding season to see the difference.

We walked along to the beach where we sat and had our packed lunch of Craster kipper pate sandwiches. This was only a short break here before heading to our next destination, the island of Lindisfarne.



It was busier than we anticipated, which meant we had to follow crowds of people out towards Lindisfarne castle. This was our third castle visit of the holiday and was very different to both Warkworth and Dunstanburgh, being still complete with furnished rooms. It was very busy and warm inside, with occasional queues in the corridors.






The castle is perched on a prominent rocky crag to the south east point of the island and provides good views towards the Farne Islands and Bamburgh castle.


After looking around the castle we returned to the village and had a brief look around the priory and at St Aidan's winery, where we tried a sample of mead. We then returned via Bamburgh for our evening meal.




19.The Castle Hotel, Bamburgh - 6:45pm

Very busy pub, with efficient service. Good pub food with generous portions.




20.The Lord Crewe, Bamburgh - 8:00pm

Passed by as we were too full from our meal at the Castle Hotel. Looked very nice.


We ended the evening with a gentle stroll down past Bamburgh castle to the beach.

Day 5 - Bamburgh to Embleton (and back to Beadnell)

18.5 miles, 8 hours (including pub visits)

We chose to do this section in reverse so that we could finish walking at our holiday cottage in Beadnell. Also this meant that the rest of the family could do a much shorter walk from Beadnell to Low Newton and meet up with us there for lunch.

We were dropped off in Bamburgh at 10:30am and took a short detour to see the two remaining pubs in the village.



21.Victoria Hotel, Bamburgh - 10:30am

A large building overlooking the head of the green. Didn't stop.




22.Mizen Head, Bamburgh - 10:35am

A few minutes from the village centre. A newly refurbished building. Didn't stop.






We then headed back down past the magnificent castle to the beach. This enormous fortress is sited on dominant rocky outcrop, providing a perfect defensive position with views for miles around.

A great expanse of sand stretched out ahead of us, and only a handful of people were on it.






It was easy walking along the beach as the sand was firm where the tide had receded. Bamburgh castle soon disappeared behind the large sand dunes as we turned towards Seahouses. There were good views out to the Farne Islands, with Inner Farne appearing quite close.


It wasn't long before we reached the busy resort town of Seahouses.



23.Olde Ship Hotel, Seahouses - 11:45am

A lovely pub, inside is quite a pleasant surprise from what we expected from the exterior. Packed full of ship treasures. We had a drink in the small cosy bar.




24.Harbour Inn, Seahouses - 12:05pm

A large modern pub on the main road. Didn't stop here.




25.Schooner Inn, Seahouses - 12:10pm

A small traditional pub. We enjoyed a nice coffee here.




26.Black Swan, Seahouses - 12:30pm

Right next door to the Schooner, overlooking the harbour. Didn't stop here.







From outside the pub there was a good view across Seahouses harbour where boats were preparing for their next trip. We could see back to Bamburgh castle, and also Lindisfarne in the very distance.


Leaving Seahouses behind we passed around the rocky edge of North Sunderland point and along the side of a now flooded quarry, then returned to the beach through the dunes after crossing Annstead Bridge. As we followed the beach south towards Beadnell the cloud began to break up and the day became much warmer and sunnier.




We arrived at Beadnell Bay opposite the harbour, where people were fishing off the wall. This is a very pretty harbour surrounded by some large limekilns.

The beach was quite busy at this point but just a couple of minutes further along and we had the enormous expanse of golden sand to ourselves. This is one of the best beaches along this stretch of coastline, with both clean soft sand and beautiful clear water.


On reaching Long Nanny river we had to detour inland along the edge of the dunes to cross it at the footbridge. At the edge of the dunes is the hut used by wardens to monitor nesting birds on this National Trust protected area.








We walked inland of the Newton Links dunes on a good path passing by Links House and the coastguard lookout at Newton Point. From here we looked down over Newton Haven and Embleton Bay with the familiar view of Dunstanburgh Castle beyond.


It was 2.40pm by the time we arrived at Low Newton by the Sea and unfortunately just too late for lunch. We however enjoyed a nice beer and a packet of crisps sitting outside in the sunshine. Our parents who were only walking from Beadnell had got delayed enjoying the beach and joined us fifteen minutes later.



27.Ship Inn, Low Newton by the Sea - 2:40pm

A lovely setting for the pub in a square of little cottages. The pub has it's own brewery, their own dark beer was very nice.






Revived by our beer and the fantastic sunny day we decided to continue on to Embleton. Passing to the back of the ship inn we followed along the edge of Newton Pool nature reserve.




28.Sportsman Inn, Embleton - 4:25pm

Very large building with great views out over Embleton Bay. Didn't stop here.





29.Greys Inn, Embleton - 4:30pm

Nice smart bar. We sat at the tables across the road to have a drink




30.Bluebell Inn, Embleton - 4:40pm

Very pretty inn, looks more like a house than a pub. Unfortunately closed




31.Dunstanburgh Castle Hotel, Embleton - 4:45pm

Very smart looking hotel. Didn't stop as we had to get back to Beadnell







From Embleton village we retraced our route back to the beach and walked along it towards Low Newton, once again admiring the views of Dunstanburgh Castle.






We decided to take a slightly different route back, this time walking around the headlands of Newton Point and Snook Point. The footpaths were very quiet, with only birds and bumblebees for company.







At the southernmost tip of Beadnell Bay we dropped down onto the beach. The huge sweep of the sandy bay appeared to be deserted.






The water looked very tempting and so we were soon taking off our boots and paddling our way back to the harbour. By now the tide had gone out and it was possible to walk across the mouth of Long Nanny easily. Here there was a large flock of herring and black backed gulls feeding.






We reached the harbour at 6:30pm, the tide was well out and the boats were left standing high. By this point we were getting quite hungry, so it was back to our cottage for a quick freshen up and off to the pub for tea.

Day 6 - Cragside House and Gardens

We decided to take another day off walking the route. We had originally thought we would visit Cragside House and Gardens in Rothbury at the end of the walk, but after realising it is closed on Mondays we had to change our plan.



Cragside, now owned by the National Trust, was once home to Lord William Armstrong. Armstrong earnt his money in the field of mechanical engineering in Newcastle. He applied the use of hydraulics in cranes and moving bridges and later became involved in gun making and building warships.

Cragside was originally built as a holiday home and later extended to become his main residence. It was the first house to be powered by electricity, generated using water power.





The estate is extensive, with several miles of paths and tracks joining the different areas - rock gardens, pinetum, valley gardens, formal gardens and the network of lakes used to generate hydroelectric power for the house.

We walked up to the Nelly Moss Lakes via the Labyrinth. Here we sat on one of the many benches around the lake side to have our picnic lunch.


After lunch we continued around the lake and down through woods to reach the house. We spent over an hour touring the inside of the house. It was full of innovative features, including several labour saving inventions for the kitchens - a hydraulic rotisserie and a dishwasher. It also had a passenger lift, again powered using a hydraulic ram.

From the house we took the path down to the power house and through the pinetum to reach the formal gardens, with the dahlia walk in full bloom.









The formal gardens were immaculately maintained and full of colour. It was a haven for bees and butterflies with buddleia and insect houses dotted around.








The Italian terrace has only been reinstated in the last few years. It has a lovely combination of floral borders, wooden framed enclosures and a central pool. Lillies here provided bold colours and intense scent.






From the upper terrace there were great views over the garden and across the Coquet valley to the hills beyond.




We returned to the house zig-zagging up through the rock gardens.





We only saw a fraction of the grounds, despite covering over 6 miles whilst walking around the paths. This is somewhere that we will definately return to.

We headed down in to Rothbury for our evening meal.



32.Queens Head, Rothbury - 6:30pm

Lovely bar with a very smart restaurant. Great food and service.




We left Rothbury as the sun set over the Cheviots.

Day 7 - Bamburgh to Wooler

17 miles, 9 hours (including pub visits)




We got dropped off on the road just outside Bamburgh at 9:20am and began the walk across the fields. The initial section follows the coast path up hill towards Waren Mill. As we gained height there were good views back to Bamburgh Castle and to the north across budle bay towards Lindisfarne.






We soon turned away from the coast path, heading inland through fields above Waren Burn. The path from Spindlestone was much less well maintained. We crossed a rather old and rickety bridge which looked like it could collapse at any minute. We weren't quite sure whether we were on the right track until we discovered a footpath sign as we emerged from the wood. Our route from there kept to field edges much of the way, and although these were quite overgrown in many places it was a very pleasant walk.

Lots of farms were busy harvesting, making the most of the good dry weather. We regularly heard the rumble of combine harvesters or saw clouds of dust in the distance.





33.The Apple Inn, Lucker - 11:05am

Closed when we arrived. Looked a newly refurbished pub.



The section of path between Lucker and Warenford was very overgrown. Where the path should have entered the woods alongside Waren Burn there were nothing but brambles and stinging nettles. We decided the only way to proceed was along the field edge but even this was hard going especially as we were wearing shorts! By the time we reached the road at Warenford our legs were tingling from scratches and stings.



34.The White Swan - Warenford - 12:00am

A nice clean modern looking bar. Situated in a quiet location despite being so close to the A1. We sat outside for a coffee






Leaving Warenford refreshed we followed the clear well marked route around Twizell House. This was very pleasant walking on a good track past Twizell farm and into Quarry Plantation.

As we reached the edge the woods the view suddenly opened out revealing the open expanse of Chatton Moor. Large patches of purple heather brightened up the hillsides.






It was a gentle ascent across the moor to reach Brownridge ruined farm buildings. Now only occupied by sheep. The sea appeared once again in the distance behind us.





Just a few yards further on we reached the top of the ridge and a new focus appeared on the horizon. The unmistakable outline of the cheviots lay ahead of us.

Heather carpeted the ground around us we followed the clear grassy track across the moor. This would have been a perfect place to stop for our lunch in the sunshine with great view all around but unfortunately as soon as we sat we were plagued by flying ants so had to move on quickly.





A gradual descent along grassy tracks took us past Coalhouses ruined buildings. Now safely away from flying ants we stopped on the bank to have our lunch, looking over towards Chatton and the Cheviot hills beyond.

Continuing onwards we soon reached Shielhope house and the road down to the pretty village of Chatton.




35.Percy Arms Hotel - Chatton - 3:45pm

A lovely exterior with benches in the garden. A large spacious bar inside.


The fields beyond Chatton were a mixture of sheep and wheat soon to be harvested. Short sections of the path along the Till valley were again overgrown, though by now a few more scratches and stings weren't really noticeable.




On reaching Fowberry Bridge we turned along a very straight section of road, passing the grand house of Fowberry Tower.





Leaving the road behind we climbed steadily up to reach Weetwood Moor. Looking back we could clearly see the route we had come from with Brownridge in the very distance. At the top of the hill the path joined briefly with a section of St Cuthberts way.




The large number of thistles on the edge of the moor
were alive with butterflies on this sunny afternoon.





As we approached the top of the hill the fields were replaced by a mass of purple heather and the gentle hum of bees. Ahead the views of the cheviots reappeared but now only the Wooler valley lay between us.

We made our down from the moor and followed the road into Wooler.




36.The Wheatsheaf, Wooler - 6:15pm

Traditional style pub with large busy bar.




37.Anchor Inn, Wooler - 6:45pm

A nice cosy family pub. Good basic pub food.




38.The Black Bull, Wooler - 8:15pm

A smart pub, but busy and no seats free so we didn't stop.




39.Angel Inn, Wooler - 8:15pm

An old pub with several small rooms.




40.Tankerville Arms, Wooler - 8:30pm

A little way out of town, we drove by this one.


The other pub listed in Wooler, the Red Lion, was closed up and had a for sale sign on the front.

We returned to our cottage in Beadnell for the final time. For the remainder of our time we had bed and breakfasts to look forward to.

Day 8 - Wooler to Alwinton

20.5 miles, 9 hours (no pubs!)



It was almost 10:00am by the time we were dropped off in Wooler, having left our cottage in Beadnell for the last time. The town was left behind quickly as we climbed up on to Wooler Common and round towards the hamlet of Earle.

Following quiet lanes we turned past Middleton Hall and on into the Harthope valley.





We continued to follow the small lane into the Harthope valley for almost 3 miles getting deeper in to the Cheviots as we progressed. Every so often we saw signs warning of red squirrels but unfortunately we didn't see the squirrels themselves!







After a steep drop to Carey Burn Bridge we followed close to Harthope Burn passing meadows and woods. Despite being on the road it was very quiet and pretty along this section. There were several flowers on the banks including these harebells.






Continuing along the road the landscape gradually changed the meadows now replaced by open moorland. Large patches of purple heather dotted the slopes of the valley, and the road was bordered with bracken and tall grasses, providing cover for hundreds of young pheasants.







As we turned off the road at Langlee the Cheviot could be seen, although the summit was shrouded in cloud.




We had a steep climb up out of the valley towards the rocky outcrop of Langlee Crags. Looking back we could see down the length of Harthope valley.





From Langlee Crags we passed over Broad Moss, an open expanse of heather moorland, to reach a small shooter's hut near the edge of Threestoneburn wood. Just inside the wood we found a very convenient flat stone to sit down on and have a sandwich.






We followed the path through the wood to emerge in a clearing shortly before Threestoneburn House. As we rounded the house we joined a well maintained track towards The Dod, another isolated farmhouse.






From The Dod we headed in a southerly direction across the moor, now leaving the track behind. In places it was very wet and boggy, with some tricky crossings to be made where small streams crossed our path.





Once past the streams it was good easy walking and we made steady progress across the moor. Looking back we could see a patchwork of greenery with the mix of grasses, bracken, heather and trees.

Through this whole area we didn't see any other people, and even the sheep seemed very startled at seeing us approach.


The next section of path was unclear at times which could make navigation more difficult in bad weather. Fortunately it was a good day for us and as we proceeded closer to Greensidehill waymarkers became more frequent.





A short section of road took us towards Hartside where there were lots of cars parked along the verges. This appeared to be a popular starting point to walk to Linhope Spout waterfall.

We soon left the people behind as we headed down to cross the River Breamish.






Then came a long steady drag uphill on the slopes of Shill Moor and around Little Dod to reach Salters Road track. Here we were passed very quickly by a group of cyclists as we descended to cross Shank Burn.

We then caught up to them again as we climbed steeply back up the other side, as they had to get off and push their bikes up the hill.




There was a menagerie of barking dogs, gaggling geese and quacking ducks as we passed through the yard of Ewartly Shank farm.

On leaving the farm we encountered another stretch of boggy ground. There were clear waymarkers which seemed designed to lead us into the wettest patches!







After a very brief encounter with a road we were off on to an unclear path across boggy moorland once again. There was the occasional waymarker to reassure us that we were following the right route, and again we were thankful for the good clear weather.

We crossed a small stream at Tod Stones where a waterfall gently splashed down a little ravine.





Shortly afterwards we discovered why the waymarkers led to the boggiest parts - these sheep were systematically moving them! Or perhaps they were just trying to knock them down.








The path became clearer as we passed through a plantation, and eventually turned into a track beyond Harden Burn. We finally reached civilisation once more at Biddlestone where we joined the road.


We followed the road, turning off the route to finally reach our Bed and Breafast, Parsonside House just before 7:00pm.






41.Rose and Thistle, Alwinton - 8:00pm

A large open lounge bar. Friendly staff, good food and beer.

Day 9 - Alwinton to Rothbury

18.5 miles, 8 1/2 hours (including pub visits)




We returned to the point where we left the route and continued on along a good bridle track towards Alwinton. This led round the outskirts of Clennell Hall to reach Clennel Street, the ancient roadway into Scotland. We followed this for a short way to arrive in Alwinton village.





Alwinton is a very pretty village with a large green, the pub and a few little cottages. We saw the landlord from the pub who gave us a cheery "Good Luck" for the last day.

The rowan trees along the stream through the village were full of bright red berries.





We followed the road out of the village, crossing the River Alwin shortly before it joins the Coquet. There was a good view back across the meadows to Alwinton and the Cheviot hills behind.

Turning off the road we followed a track which brought us back into the Coquet valley and along to Harbottle. Occasional glimpses of Harbottle Castle could be seen through the trees. It was warm and sunny, but the views were becoming very misty in the distance.




42.The Star Inn, Harbottle - 11:10am

Unfortunately closed, as we were ready for a drink.





The next stage took us into Harbottle Woods. Initially it was a well worn route weaving through mature trees, though it was light and airy as some recent felling had occurred.

Slightly further into the wood, the trees became thicker, with soft dropped needles carpeting the floor and lots of multicoloured mushrooms among them. The path was clearly marked and this was a very enjoyable change from the open moorlands.






Shortly after leaving the woods we arrived at Lady's Well, Holystone. This quiet tranquil pool was quite an amazing sight, and a very relaxing place to be. The water was incredibly clear, and signs indicate that it is used as the water supply for the village.




From Holystone the route rejoined the River Coquet, passing along the valley floor through a very long meadow. There was one very wet section where we had to carefully find our way across a boggy ditch, testing the ground ahead of us with poles.

After just over a mile in the meadow we turned uphill to join a series of good tracks into Hepple.





We crossed the River Coquet once more at Hepple. The water looked quite deep and darkly coloured from the peat of the cheviot moors.

The outline of the hills gradually faded into the mist and we could feel a little dampness in the air. As we followed a short road section uphill towards Bickerton it started to rain more steadily.






Leaving the road behind we headed across to the lakes of Caistron nature reserve. The reserve was once a gravel and sand quarry, now a haven for birds and fish.




We sat in a hide out of the rain for our lunch, watching the birds and the fish jumping. To our amazement we saw a large bird plunge down into the water - an osprey. After a few moments it returned again for another dive, unfortunately we didn't have the camera ready.

Eventually after waiting for several minutes in hope of a third appearance with camera poised nothing happened and so it was time to move on.




43.Three Wheat Heads, Thropton - 4:40pm

A large pub with quiet lounge bar and restaurant. We enjoyed a few minutes sitting indoors out of the rain.




44.Cross Keys, Thropton - 5:00pm

A cosy pub with several small private seating areas.




The rain had eased by the time we left the Cross Keys. We headed uphill along the enclosed track of Physic Lane to reach open moorland. Looking back we could see over the village of Thropton and across the fields we had walked through.


Much of the heather was starting to fade, but it still provided a carpet of colour.






The path follows the carriage drive which contours around the hillside. This was once part of Lord Armstrong’s Cragside Estate. There was a good view down to Rothbury and along the valley.

After a while the track entered woodland and took a gradual snaking route downhill before dropping more steeply into the town, emerging on to the high street by the Queens Head.



We headed for our B&B, Silverton House before returning to the town for food at the Queens Head, and to see the remaining pubs.






45.Railway Hotel, Rothbury - 8:45pm

Very busy traditional local pub.




46.Newcastle Hotel, Rothbury - 9:00pm

Grand building in the centre of the town.




47.Turks Head, Rothbury - 9:15pm

Old coaching inn with traditional bar.

Accommodation

A list of the accommodation we used including contact details and web sites.

1.Beadnell

Edgewater, Longstone Close, Beadnell NE67 5BS
Self catering cottage for 8 people (2 double, 2 twin)







Contact:
Sarah Mackenzie
Tel: 07890 395634
Web: www.edgewater-holidays.co.uk
Grid Ref: NU 234 292
Distance from route: 100 yds

Comments:
Large family accommodation in a good central location for the coastal section of the walk. Just 2 minutes walk from the sea and overlooking a nature reserve.


2.Alwinton

Parsonside, Newton Farm, Alwinton, Northumberland NE65 7DP
Bed and Breakfast - 1 double, 1 twin




Contact:
Mrs Grace Graham
Tel: 01669 650275
Web: www.visit-rothbury.co.uk/accom/bb_parsonside.htm
Grid Ref: NT 944 070
Distance from route: 3/4 mile
Cost: £50 - double, en-suite room

Comments:
A very clean and comfortable room. Friendly welcome. Fresh flowers in the room, and red squirrels to watch from the sitting room.



3.Rothbury

Silverton House, Rothbury, Northumberland NE65 7RJ
Bed and Breakfast - 1 double, 1 twin




Contact:
John & Maggie Wallace
Tel: 01669 621395
Web: www.silvertonhouse.co.uk
Grid Ref: NU 063 011
Distance from route: 1/2 mile
Cost: £65 - double, en-suite room

Comments:
Lovely house with pretty garden. Warm welcome with tea and biscuits on arrival. Comfortable room, and great breakfast.